Tag Archives: treks

Tongariro Alpine Crossing aka Monster Walk

24 Dec

Another weekend, another massive walk – this time to Tongariro National Park to do most of the Alpine Crossing. We would have done all of it but it is one-way, rather than in a loop, which would have caused hassle with our hire car so we did around 13km of the 19km track and then turned round again and walked back.

We got there in rubbish weather and as it was getting dark, so pretty much ate and then went to bed, ready to get up in the morning. The weather had cleared up by the time we woke up and we could see what was hidden from us the night before



We had a bit of a false start as we couldn’t find the right car park and the unhelpful man at the Tourist Information Centre assumed that we didn’t have a car when we asked him where it was, and said we’d missed the only shuttle. He also pointed to the sign which said that if we didn’t have the right kit we weren’t allowed on the shuttle. The ‘right kit’ included hiking boots rather than trainers (I had trainers on) and long trousers (Craig had shorts on). Confusingly, it also recommended taking cellophane…until I read it again and it said cellphone…

But being ones to give up after a five hour drive to get there, we persevered and eventually found the starting point. So, armed with our backpacks full of water and cake, off we went.

The first bit lulled us into a false sense of security as it was on a boardwalk and very flat. It was also easy to overtake the slower people who were in front of us so after half an hour or so we had managed to get ahead



Except for some pesky Swedish girls who were going just slightly quicker than we were and were noticeably fitter so we used them as pace-makers, resolving to pass them in due course.

We popped to the Soda Springs to look at the waterfall and to catch our breath before tackling the climb up to the South Crater, going from 1400m above sea level to 1600m.


This climb is known as the Devil’s Staircase and for good reason. Every time you got round a corner, you’d see another set of unending steps and those bloody Swedish girls skipping up them. But the views were pretty gorgeous


Despite not being natural athletes, we are stubborn and tiny lungs and overactive sweat pores were not going to stop US. So we powered through, stopping as little as possible and smugly crawling past the Swedes when they paused for lunch at the top. Food? Pah, not for us! It was the most difficult thing I’ve done in a long time though!


This was absolute bliss as it was a large flat crater so we got a bit of a break. Until we realised that we would be climbing to here


1900m above sea level. Horrendous. There were no steps but loose volcanic rocks so pretty hard going. We had to stop halfway up for lunch (carrot cake) and were slightly dismayed to see a certain pair of blonde girls pass us.

In the meantime, the weather was getting worse and the clouds were rolling in. I am not climbing mountains only to take pictures of clouds up at the top so dug deep and scrambled up to the top, only just beaten by the Swedes, which was a shame but given that we did the walk there and back (26km) in four and a half hours and that most of this was vertical, they probably did us a favour as left to our own devices we might not have done it so quickly! So it was a proud moment when we got to the top – rather cheekily this is recorded by asking the Swedes to take a picture of us…


And the views were stunning as you could see for miles over the desert (the set of Mordor in Lord of the Rings)





And look over the Emerald Lakes


And then it was an about turn to walk allllll the way back again. A quick pub lunch and a pint (sadly during England being thumped by the All Blacks, much to the landlord’s delight) and then a long drive home. A bit much perhaps to try and fit in two days but totally worth it!