Tag Archives: New Zealand

Tongariro Alpine Crossing aka Monster Walk

24 Dec

Another weekend, another massive walk – this time to Tongariro National Park to do most of the Alpine Crossing. We would have done all of it but it is one-way, rather than in a loop, which would have caused hassle with our hire car so we did around 13km of the 19km track and then turned round again and walked back.

We got there in rubbish weather and as it was getting dark, so pretty much ate and then went to bed, ready to get up in the morning. The weather had cleared up by the time we woke up and we could see what was hidden from us the night before



We had a bit of a false start as we couldn’t find the right car park and the unhelpful man at the Tourist Information Centre assumed that we didn’t have a car when we asked him where it was, and said we’d missed the only shuttle. He also pointed to the sign which said that if we didn’t have the right kit we weren’t allowed on the shuttle. The ‘right kit’ included hiking boots rather than trainers (I had trainers on) and long trousers (Craig had shorts on). Confusingly, it also recommended taking cellophane…until I read it again and it said cellphone…

But being ones to give up after a five hour drive to get there, we persevered and eventually found the starting point. So, armed with our backpacks full of water and cake, off we went.

The first bit lulled us into a false sense of security as it was on a boardwalk and very flat. It was also easy to overtake the slower people who were in front of us so after half an hour or so we had managed to get ahead



Except for some pesky Swedish girls who were going just slightly quicker than we were and were noticeably fitter so we used them as pace-makers, resolving to pass them in due course.

We popped to the Soda Springs to look at the waterfall and to catch our breath before tackling the climb up to the South Crater, going from 1400m above sea level to 1600m.


This climb is known as the Devil’s Staircase and for good reason. Every time you got round a corner, you’d see another set of unending steps and those bloody Swedish girls skipping up them. But the views were pretty gorgeous


Despite not being natural athletes, we are stubborn and tiny lungs and overactive sweat pores were not going to stop US. So we powered through, stopping as little as possible and smugly crawling past the Swedes when they paused for lunch at the top. Food? Pah, not for us! It was the most difficult thing I’ve done in a long time though!


This was absolute bliss as it was a large flat crater so we got a bit of a break. Until we realised that we would be climbing to here


1900m above sea level. Horrendous. There were no steps but loose volcanic rocks so pretty hard going. We had to stop halfway up for lunch (carrot cake) and were slightly dismayed to see a certain pair of blonde girls pass us.

In the meantime, the weather was getting worse and the clouds were rolling in. I am not climbing mountains only to take pictures of clouds up at the top so dug deep and scrambled up to the top, only just beaten by the Swedes, which was a shame but given that we did the walk there and back (26km) in four and a half hours and that most of this was vertical, they probably did us a favour as left to our own devices we might not have done it so quickly! So it was a proud moment when we got to the top – rather cheekily this is recorded by asking the Swedes to take a picture of us…


And the views were stunning as you could see for miles over the desert (the set of Mordor in Lord of the Rings)





And look over the Emerald Lakes


And then it was an about turn to walk allllll the way back again. A quick pub lunch and a pint (sadly during England being thumped by the All Blacks, much to the landlord’s delight) and then a long drive home. A bit much perhaps to try and fit in two days but totally worth it!


Driving in NZ is SUCH a chore

27 Oct

Having had zero fun and all work recently, we decided to take advantage of a rare opportunity to spend some time together and put the new (old) car to the test and go away for the weekend. Luckily, this coincided with absolutely spectacular weather so we decided to do the walk to the Putangirua Pinnacles – for the second time, the first having been called off during one of the worst storms in the Wellington region for 30 years.

As it was a bit of a last minute decision and we had been all the way there before, we decided not to take any food, reasoning that the nearby Lake Ferry Hotel would be able to provide us with tea on the Saturday. So we packed up our new tent and a few other bits and bobs into the Morris and set off in glorious sunshine.

Driving in NZ is just ridiculous. The roads are always packed and so grey and drab


But we battled through the traffic ok and on to the motorway. First setback was at a petrol station on the motorway as the car decided to spring a leak after we’d bought drinks and snacks – luckily it was only the coolant having been filled up too much by the previous owner and not the black pool of death (oil).

As Wellington is so hilly, there is only usually one way to each place you want to visit – and the Pinnacles can only be found when you venture over the Rimutaka Range. Stunning views but the poor car struggled a little on the way up (second gear was necessary) so we stopped halfway up to let it catch its breath and to enjoy the views that were shrouded by clouds last time we took this route



The lovely views continued as we got closer to Lake Ferry


And finally we were on the road to the campsite (last time the road was covered in waves so this was a definite improvement)


Our little Morris did us proud and didn’t put a foot wrong


We dumped our stuff after chatting to a couple of people who were interested in the van – having an unusual car means you can’t exactly slip under the radar…

And set off for Lake Ferry pub to have a meal and a well-earned beer


We decided to have an early tea so we could fish at sunset. Sadly we caught nothing but seaweed and sandfly bites (the itchiest of all itchy things, hands down) but it was worth it for the stunning sunset. Cape Palliser is the most Southerly part of the North Island so although my phone pic is rubbish, what you can’t see is the sun setting behind the snow-capped mountains of the South Island


It was just one of those moments you have to remember rather than document.

When it became clear we weren’t going to set any fishing records we headed back to the campsite for a fire and a drink or two. Having remembered to at least pack firelighters (nothing else hugely useful though), we soon had a brilliant fire going, much to the jealously of everyone else. To be fair though, they were all grey nomads with massive motorhomes that probably had central heating, but we did attract the attention of a couple of Slovakian/Canadian backpackers who asked if we would mind sharing. We said that was fine as long as they brought us more wood (we are nothing if not resourceful). We had a very nice evening chatting with them whilst the full moon shone until it was time for bed. Our little Aussie sleeping bags weren’t quite up to the job so we spent a fair amount of the night with teeth chattering, but I guess it’s what used to be called ‘character building’.

Our lack of preparation was woefully apparent the next morning when we had a delicious and warming meal of crisps for breakfast. We had brought water in a 10l container, and our new backpacker friends had drunk all theirs but had a spare 2l container so we did a swap so we at least had something to drink on the trek.

We set off fairly early to avoid the midday heat and walked through beautiful bush



before finding the Pinnacles. This was the set of the Dimholt Road in the Lord of the Rings films where Aragorn and Legolas are told

The way is shut. It was made by those who are Dead. And the Dead keep it. The way is shut.

However, in full sunshine it was not scary at all and really quite amazing


We’d heard that if we did the loop track we’d see even better views so confidently set off down a little path with a sign pointing the way. Our demeanour was slightly less confident after walking up vertical mountains for few more hours, going further and further away from the sea (and therefore the campsite). Eventually we admitted defeat and turned round, walking up and down around nine mountains before finally getting back. We discovered that the track we’d been on didn’t actually go anywhere except a little hut which would have been somewhat demoralising. Still we didn’t get eaten by bush tigers or eagles so I counting this as a win. It certainly made the calves and thigh muscles realise that they could potentially be more involved in my life.

Not an excellent picture but we walked from the You Are Here sign nearly to the Washpool Hut and back again. Not quite the short two hour ramble we had been planning


But still a beautiful weekend and nice to get out of the city for a change.

The next weekend (this one) is a Bank Holiday weekend and as the weather was meant to be awful, we decided not to go away but do a couple of nearby things. After the Morris passed its Warrant of Fitness (MOT) yesterday and had a thorough service, we took her out for another run and spent an enjoyable day weaving down the back roads between Karori and the coast. We stopped at a little café with a stream running through the garden and a sign stating ‘DO NOT POKE THE EELS WITH STICKS’. Had the sign not been there, it would not have occurred to us that there would be eels in the stream, never mind to poke them with sticks, but it drew us in to have a look. Fifteen huge 2m long eels lurked back at us which was very unexpected. A little boy poked one of them (with his finger, he was a good boy) and announced that they were pretty slimy so I wasn’t massively tempted to have a go. The café was shut but the eels were worth the detour alone!

The incessant wind let up slightly today (Wellington has 200 days a year which are over gale force, peaking in November so it’s pretty relentless at the moment) so being gluttons for punishment, we went for another walk. This time it was completely by accident as we happened to go past an interesting sign for a coastal walk and followed it. We were glad we did as despite the wind, it was a beautiful few hours from Eastbourne to the first lighthouse in New Zealand (conveniently situated on top of a mountain, joy!) and back again





Again, only having my phone on me was a complete waste because in the middle of this photo are the South Island mountains which were so clear on a day like this you could see the cliffs. My shoddy panoramic app was no match for the lovely views but hopefully this’ll give you some idea of the amazing scenery (and the absolute lack of other people throughout the whole walk!)

photo 1

Where has a month gone?

15 Sep

We’ve mainly been working and not doing much recently but this is what we’ve been up to in between times:

Wellington on a Plate Festival – the hundreds of restaurants in Wellington put on special offers, courses, menus etc for a week. We took full advantage by visiting Logan Brown which we wouldn’t normally be able to afford to do. They did a five course meal for $65 which was delicious, and is an old bank building so the surroundings are lovely too.


Went to see ‘Love and Money’ – and introduced to a whole new art form of ‘physical theatre’. People doing amazing things with their amazing bodies!


Completed another ridiculous walk, this time to try and stave off a horrendous cold (didn’t work sadly). I think we ended up walking around 25 miles around what felt like the whole coast of New Zealand, but the views were lovely. There were some cool wind-themed sculptures by the bay…Wellington is the windiest city in the Southern Hemisphere.



I also had my birthday (same day as Grandpa, Happy Birthday to you too!) and have been rather delighted to find I am now a spring baby rather than an autumn one. So instead of my birthday signalling the annual six-month darkening, we find ourselves surrounded by snowdrops, daffodils and daisies. According to the paper, this change means that I will do less well at school, be less sporty, be more likely to develop an eating disorder but less chance of having asthma than autumn babies. Excellent.


Took a walk up Mount Victoria, which sounds very energetic but it’s a bit of a rubbish mountain being only 196m and you are able to drive up to the top. The views are worth the climb though as you can see the CBD and harbour, the many bays and out to the South Island. We’re having a gorgeous spell of weather at the moment (except on my birthday which was freezing – some things never change).



We have also bitten the bullet and bought a car. Something practical that we can chuck our stuff in and go camping, or trundle around at the weekend making the weekly shop a bit easier.









Just another example of our sensible, clinical and logical decisions made whilst abroad. The rest of New Zealand, here we come (slowly)…


Rudely awakened/ashakened

24 Jul

Another earthquake shook me awake this morning but not enough for my poor brain to register that anything bad was happening so fell blissfully back to sleep having slept very badly over the last few days as every quiver I felt jolted me back awake thinking the worst was going to happen. Craig didn’t even wake up which is a good sign. As I work for the Earthquake Commission I get emails of every earthquake felt in the country for information – when I got into work on Monday I had 163 emails! Things seems to be settling down thank goodness but people are still very rattled. Today was the first day at work where the building didn’t shake so hopefully that’s the end of it and things can get back to normal!

Having said that, as the royal baby was born the other day, Wellington Port put on a 21 gun salute in celebration. When everyone’s nerves are shot to pieces after the storms and earthquakes, hearing gun fire wasn’t the most reassuring thing in the world!

And another one…

21 Jul


6.9 this time. We were just settling down to watch a film and our flat started shaking but it soon became apparent that this was a big one so when the washing up started falling on the floor we ran to the bathroom doorway and stood there waiting it out – don’t think our hearts have gone that fast since cross country in middle school…everyone in our block came outside afterwards and said hello and checked everyone was alright which was nice. First thing tomorrow it’s time to get an earthquake kit together I think! We’ve had several aftershocks from the ones over the weekend and the CBD has had glass everywhere and concrete collapse but thankfully everyone seems to be ok. New Zealand has 20,000 earthquakes a year so it was going to happen at some point but was hoping they’d be somewhat further apart!




Wellington earthquakes

20 Jul

The day started off a little more exciting than planned yesterday as at just after 9 am a 5.7 magnitude earthquake hit Central NZ – I was in our seven storey office building in the CBD at the time and thought someone was stamping their feet on our floor at first…and then the building started shaking from side to side. Everyone just kind of looked at each other a bit rabbit in the headlights and held on to our desks. There’s a guy in our team who went through the Christchurch earthquakes in 2010/11 so he’s used as a bit of a marker – if he dives under the desk for cover, we all will! Luckily it wasn’t that bad as we weren’t over the centre of it, but the shaking continued for around 30 seconds. I felt sorry for the block over the road as their building is on rollers because it’s very high, so would have been rocking for much longer.


A second quake happened the same afternoon, this time a 4.4. That was over pretty quickly – I was on the phone at the time and thought someone behind me was moving my chair. A lady who lives in Christchurch was up visiting our Wellington office and she said there have been many earthquakes since the big ones at home, but the one yesterday brought back memories because it was unexpected. Although Wellington is on a fault line, we don’t seem to get ones that can be felt very often (touch wood).

If we do have one that results in us being trapped in our building at work, we have a cabinet on each floor that contains three days’ supply of food and water, medical items, etc and we have a different emergency procedure for earthquake and fire, which is something I never thought I’d have to consider!

I have felt an earthquake back in England but that was a very small one that hit at night and just shook the bed a little. Being in a lurching office building on the fifth floor was somewhat more scary. However, it doesn’t seem that it’s caused much serious damage across the country and is nothing to compare to the Christchurch earthquakes – (the city being pretty much above the epicentre) I recommend watching When A City Falls if you wanted to get a perspective of the devastation caused there.


In the bleak midwinter…

14 Jul

We have been going a bit stir-crazy recently as Winter has properly hit Wellington which means we’ve been staring at the same four walls for what feels like weeks. We had a storm two weeks ago that was the worst in twenty years, knocking out  power to 30,000 homes, causing landslips and stopping most of the transport – a downside of living close to the centre is that we could definitely go into work. I stood watching glass panels from the office block across the road blow out of their roof and land on the pavement and finally got to see the typical Wellington sight of rubbish bins stuffed with broken umbrellas! Craig tore a ligament in his back last weekend so has been at home bored so we decided to do something fun and hire a car again for the weekend and see where the wind (literally) took us.

The pin on the map said Lake Wairarapa so we packed the NZ equivalent of Wotsits, our new bargain satnav ($50 second hand) and the camera and off we went. Sadly we got a bit carried away admiring the beautiful Rimutaka mountain range – or would have been beautiful had it been sunny – and didn’t turn off so we ended exploring a bit further North than planned. But we found a lovely country pub



that did massive portions of lunch and proper pints for no money so we were happy. The landlady recommended an alternative way home so got to see countryside that was a bit different from on the way up and we were home: essentially, a very expensive exercise in eating a pub lunch. But despite the rubbish weather and lack of actually doing anything, we enjoyed it as it was nice to get out of the city. We assured ourselves the weather would be better the next day anyway, and we would find our elusive Lake.

We did find MASSIVE NZ pigeons which were the size of eagles so it was a pretty good day all in all


We also went for a little impromptu off-roading sesh in homage to our time at Delmore. This decision was based on “that mountain has snow! I love snow! Let’s go and find snow!” Sadly the driving rain and our lack of 4×4 put us off actually going all the way but it was a lovely/terrifying drive down a little track and halfway up a mountain (hopefully the rental company won’t see this)


As we were setting off this morning, we turned on the radio and heard that “Wellington will be battered by storm so it looks like an indoors day”. Ha! We snorted. We will not be in Wellington so this will not apply to us, the fools.


We stopped off at Petone on the way to get a couple of Macs just in case and although the weather was miserable, we were confident it would brighten up. In fact, if we’d had a wind-breaker and deck chairs, we probably would have stayed on the beach soaking up the sun



Testing out the new jacket:


I say jacket, I mean jackets. Yes, we have become one of those couples we usually sneer at who have matching jackets. There were no women’s waterproofs available, honest. Nothing says “you’re middle-aged” like a matching jacket and the only defence being “it was the practical choice”. The stories we’ll be able to tell our children…

So we made it to Lake Wairarapa:



Half of what you see here used to be fields until a few days ago because of the rain. It is apparently quite picturesque when not in the midst of a gale.

Not to be deterred, we went to find Lake Ferry. We found it and sat in the car whilst it rocked from side to side because of the wind – I opened the door to get a picture of just how grim it was and nearly lost the camera. This was the best I could do


And this was the result after 20 seconds outside of the car


We perhaps optimistically proceeded to a nearby spot to go for a walk but given that on the way there, there were bushes in the middle of the road, the cliff sides were dropping into the road and the sea was encroaching over the tarmac, we gave it a miss and turned around for the three hour drive back. The jackets probably got a five minute outing at the most. Perhaps that’s for the best.




Best. Weekend. Ever.

3 Jun

Due to the lack of a car our weekends have mainly been spent exploring the Wellington city area



which is lovely but we’re not used to cities so craved some greenery…so off we went last Sunday on a monster walk down the Hutt River Trail – a 20 mile plus walk along the river which was beautiful although slightly marred by the motorway that followed the route so not the peaceful experience we thought it was going to be. It was nice to be outside and doing some exercise though and the views were great



We walked our little trotters off though – leg muscles are approx. 95% shorter after that!

We walked from Upper Hutt back to the CBD – everyone at work’s reaction was…why!?

I would have posted a more thorough update last weekend but sadly I fell asleep watching Downton Abbey in bed and my laptop fell down the tiny crack between the bed and came to rest 2m down – goodbye laptop. Luckily the hard drive miraculously survived but the computer was no more. Dropping it was exactly how the last laptop died – lessons obviously were not learnt :(

We had a long weekend this weekend because of the Queen’s birthday – went for drinks after work and everyone was asking what we were doing for it…seemed such a waste to say nothing because of lack of car so someone suggested hiring a car so by 6pm Friday we’d booked one and had randomly decided on Rotorua because one of our Broome friends had recommended it…

…Didn’t quite realise it was 500km away but we thought the journey would be worth it. We were not disappointed: the drive was almost like sightseeing in itself.


Lake Taupo – the largest lake in Australasia


The mountain range which formed the set of Mount Doom in the Lord of the Rings films.

Every corner yielded amazing scenery -whether bucolic rolling hills with meticulous rings around them from the sheep going round and round and round or the sea views across the bays towards the South Island or cliffs and rivers


It was just beautiful. Well worth the seven plus hours in the car! And given they drive on the left and there’s only 4.5m people in NZ, with 1.5m in Auckland and 0.5m in Wellington, the roads were empty so it was a relaxing meander through the countryside to Rotorua.

Once we were there, we set about trying to find accommodation, no mean feat when it’s a bank holiday weekend. Everyone we rang said it was going to be at least $100 per night, which seemed a little steep. Until we rang the last motel who said it was going to be $150 per night, with the magic words “private spa pool”. Suddenly $150 seemed incredibly reasonable and after a quick discussion we decided we’d worked very hard recently and we deserved a proper break :)

Rotorua is famous for its geothermal activity so we checked in and had a lovely warm bath in the mineral spa which is naturally nearly 40 degrees. The next morning we went to explore the volcanic valley:



And ended up having a lakeside lunch


It looks like the end of the world: steam rising up from rocks – not just in the designated geothermal parks but also next to the motorway, in people’s gardens, next to the supermarket…it was amazing



Sadly the pay off for all the beauty was the egg smell, but I am glad we took the opportunity to take the mickey out of each other for farting continuously throughout the weekend, it made us feel a little less old considering we’d essentially come on a voluntary geology field trip and Craig had just bought a jumper with leather elbow patches…

The next day we got up early and went to see the other main geothermal site in the area. It was hugely foggy which just made things better because you couldn’t see where the steam ended and the sky began – it was basically like being in Jurassic Park. We were a bit early so detoured down a little route which looked exciting and ended up seeing a mud pool which we had all to ourselves:



But the piece de resistance was the park itself – as we got there so early we had it all to ourselves and it was stunning. The colours, smells, sounds of the steam and mud boiling were unreal. From the tiniest things



To the weirdest things










it was sublime. Made all the better for having it to ourselves with only the little fantails and finches for company.

Craig developed a worrying love of bridges




Hopefully with the right medication he’ll be alright in time.

We even got to see a geyser erupt – the area used to be inhabited by prisoners a hundred years ago (after the massive volcano erupted which has resulted in the geothermal parks) and they found by accident whilst doing their washing that soap in the hot water triggered a chain reaction which meant the ground exploded:







After all the excitement we were a little disappointed to go home but luckily our sat nav decided to play tour guide on the way home and took us on the most random route…down country lanes, over rivers and streams and through little villages so it wasn’t too taxing. And to top it all off we arrived home to find a package from Joy at home containing beers, sweets, nibbles and insanely hot sauce (she knows me so well). Couldn’t have wished to have a better time!



Lyall Bay walk – Easter Island statue

19 May

Lyall Bay walk - Easter Island statue

Not dead yet John Key!

12 May

The prime minister of New Zealand said in the press this week that in his opinion, Wellington is “dying” and the government has no idea what to do about it. He has since “clarified” his “misspeak” but people here are amazed that their own prime minister would a) say something like that about his own capital city and b) be so wrong!

Here are some images of Wellington, in and around where we live and work. We like the city as it’s not crammed full of people (only 200,000 people live in the centre and the whole region only contains another 300,000 people, which when you compare it to somewhere like London, seems positively empty) and there’s always stuff going on. They’ve even got their own sour-faced grumpy statue of Queen Victoria


which is nice because we have a similar one of her looking particularly cheerful in Leamington

queen victoria

Although I am not usually a fan of graffiti, there’s a lot of interesting art on the walls and places you have to look fairly carefully to spot


2013-04-08 11.25.26

There seems to be a bit of a tiny animals theme going on in Newtown


Weeny giraffe cheers me up on the way to work!


This pigeon popped up over the weekend

A student decided that the boards around a building site needed a bit of colour and spent a while prittsticking individual pictures up over it…managed to get a picture before the builders scraped it all off again, boo


Veggie market in Newtown. Usually less soggy than this


Our local florist’s



The city centre has boards with short stories and poems on


I never said they were good short stories…



Even the bins are pretty


My (somewhat distant) view of the bay from work


Statue over the waterfront


Every shop has a sign like this. Everyone is warning us to get winter clothes as the winds get up to 120 kph which will take some getting used to :)


We’ve just booked tickets to see Steve Hughes on Friday at the month-long comedy festival happening here, and are off to the food festival the week after that. On Sunday 26th May, Wellington has an “open day”, so loads of attractions drop their normal entrance tickets to $2, so hopefully we’ll get to go to the zoo, which we’ve been meaning to do for ages (seeing as we can hear the lions roar in the morning from our flat!) for $4 instead of $42. Win!  So I have to say, even though we’ve only been here for a couple of weeks, we already disagree with the prime minister. Feels like being at home!